Hanging out in Hangzhou

Day 18: Racism

I almost didn't bring this up, but I must. I have been experiencing a bit
of racism directed towards myself since I arrived in China. I'm sure
someone out there will say "come on, give me a break" or "you are a white
man, how could anyone be racist towards you?"

2 Saturdays ago, I was walking down Nan Chang Lu (think North Michigan Ave.
in Chicago - but in Hangzhou) trying desperately to find groceries and this
man walks up to me angrily and spits on me. I mean, hock a loogie and spat
on the side of my face. Then he shouted something and walked past.
Normally, I would have had a slight confrontation - but I was in such shock
that I wiped it off and kept walking. I wish I could have understood what
he said -- or remembered it. I was so angry that I grabbed a taxi home at
the next block and went home. I stayed in the rest of the night. The
gentleman appeared to be a rural farmer (nongmin, which is commonly used as
a racial slur here towards rural, uneducated people - but it is the proper
name for a farmer). He did not dress like a Hangzhou-ese nor did he look
like one either. Regardless, I was put off.

The "fat and 'hen da'" comments aside (hen da = very big), I can deal with a
lot. I understand that I stand 6' 3" and weigh close to 260. I am a big
man. I am not worried when local people gawk and stare. I'm used to it by
now. Little children are the best. I usually bend over and say "Ni hao"
and they hide. I guess they aren't used to seeing a large white man say
hello? ;)

I wish I knew more Chinese slang. I am called so many names that I don't
quite understand what all of them mean. The ones accompanied by a nasty
"You must die" look are typically shouted at me. I ignore them, playing
ignorance (who wants to see me get deported for assaulting a much smaller
gentleman?), but after they follow me down the street (sometimes pushing or
poking) it does become quite irritating and frustrating.

The final "complaint" if you will, is the belief that white people are
inherently rich. I just had a gentleman try to unlock my phone and charge
me 400Y (50 bucks). I can buy a new phone for that. Merchants try to
milk every last cent from me. I have seriously argued over 2Y (25 cents) in
a price. I do it for language practice, but they are seriously trying to
milk every cent. Another merchant used to carry Diet Coke. Like the only
place within walking distance to have it. As of last week she refuses to
carry it. I asked her in my broken Chinese if Diet Coke will return. She
angrily commented something along the lines of "find it somewhere else".
Now, I love my Diet Coke (thanks mom!), but nowhere carries it. My fellow
student and I would spend many yuan at this place buying just diet coke (I
usually bought some other stuff too for school). She despises me when I
come in -- her smile turns upside down into a frown! As is life. I found
a new breakfast place where they love me.....but they just raised the price
of my normal food from 2Y 2m to 2Y 6m. No kidding. Do I buy that much?
Did they mischarge me the past week? Did I mispay? I mean -- in all
seriousness, something like this in America would be about $3 (24 Y), but
the principle of the 4m change (5 cents) is irritating.

In my lifetime, I could never understand the racism others have felt, but I
have experienced my own kind here.

I am *not* saying that all Chinese are like that. It is typically nongmin,
older ladies and gentlemen, and young men (looking like they want to start a
fight). The majority of Chinese are extremely nice and friendly. Like
the wonderful produce woman who suggests new fruit everytime I stop by. Or
the Li-Ning employee who always smiles and tries to help me find "da de"
clothes (bigger!! - I wear a 3-4X here). I love it here, and I will love
it more when I know the language better.

BTW. Happy Fourth of July to those Americans out there. We had school
today. ;)

posted by Mike @ 6:39 PM